Spring care for planting garden strawberries

Spring care for planting garden strawberries

Strawberries (garden strawberries) are tasty, healthy and loved by many. At the same time, it is a rather capricious plant and requires compliance with a set of agrotechnical measures that should be started in early spring, otherwise the gardener will not see a bountiful harvest, and the plants themselves will look unattractive without care and will become easy prey for pests and diseases.

Wake Up Strawberry: First Care Steps

In order for the strawberry bushes to wake up from their winter sleep and start growing, of course, you need warmth. If the spring is early, then the plants will start growing earlier. But natural factors alone are not enough for the successful development of garden strawberries. The gardener will have to work hard.

To get such a wonderful harvest of garden strawberries, you need to start caring for them as soon as the snow melts.

As soon as the snow melts and the ground dries just enough to get to the strawberry beds, the following work begins:

  1. Spring-cleaning. In most regions, except for the southern ones, strawberries are covered for the winter to protect them from freezing. With a covering (mulching) material, proceed as follows:
    • If corn stalks, foliage, straw, that is, parts of plants were used, they are harvested and burned. They are no longer suitable either in compost heaps or as mulch: either spores of pathogenic fungi or insects - lovers of strawberries - have probably found a refuge in them. It is permissible not to rip off the rotted mulch to bare ground, if the owner of the plot is sure that there were very few pests on strawberries last year and they were successfully fought with. At the first loosening, such mulch is slightly sprinkled with earth, using it as fertilizer.
    • If the strawberries were covered with a film, then they need to be disinfected. Small pieces of material are washed and kept in a solution of copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, and large shelters are spread, thoroughly washed with water and laundry soap and then sprayed with the same fungicides. You can cover the beds with a clean, dried film when they are ready.
  2. Cleaning of plants. From under the snow, strawberry bushes appear untidy, with dry leaves, remnants of a mustache, perhaps unpicked flower stalks remain in some places. All these parts of the plants are also removed, but not torn off, but cut with garden shears and destroyed. This can be done not only by burning, but also by dropping it, preferably away from the strawberry bed. The motto of some gardeners and gardeners Everything in compost for strawberries is inappropriate and can have the most sad consequences, since this berry is very tender and the compost for it should contain only harmless elements.

    Dry leaves and mustache remnants must be carefully cut off with a pruner and destroyed.

  3. When the beds are cleaned and the bushes have acquired a neat appearance, care should be taken to ensure their rational arrangement. Density negatively affects the development of plants, in addition, if the strawberry bushes are not well ventilated, then they may be threatened by gray and white rot of the fruit. Therefore, all plants with signs of disease, degeneration, dwarfism are removed, and young shoots, bought or bred last year from a mustache, are planted in an empty place. Optimal landing patterns:
    • one-line (50–60 cm in a row from a row and 20–30 cm in a row between plants);
    • two-line (20 cm between bushes, 30 cm between lines, 70 between beds).

      Planting every 15 cm in a row is used less and less, since many strawberry varieties constantly appearing on the market have a powerful leaf rosette and give two harvests a year, therefore, they need a large feeding area.

  4. Soil renewal and enrichment. Some gardeners advise removing the topsoil to help the roots warm up better. But garden strawberries have a peculiarity: over time, they begin to bulge out of the ground, so they rather need to fill in fresh fertile soil than remove the old one. Therefore, the soil is loosened and rotted manure, humus are added (in a bucket per square meter).

    If the roots of the plant are bare, you need to fill them with fertile soil or humus

  5. If the soil has time to dry out, the bed is watered abundantly before loosening.

    In the spring, it is better to water the strawberries with sprinkling - this promotes the growth of leaves

Fertilization and mulching

When fertilizing plantings, the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the harm will be more tangible than the benefit. If the bed is planted in the fall, then there is no need to feed the plants - the fertilizers laid down during planting will be enough until feeding during flowering.

Fresh manure cannot be applied in spring. First, too much of it will cause the strawberries to grow leaves rather than bear fruit. Secondly, the bushes can burn from the excess of ammonia. And thirdly, excessive nitrogen fertilization makes garden strawberries more susceptible to disease. But this does not mean that nitrogen fertilizers are not needed for strawberries. Nitrogen fertilizing can be made from a mullein by taking a half-liter can of fertilizer in a bucket of water, or from bird droppings (1 part to 15 parts of water, no more). Mullein insist 3-4 hours, such preparation is not required for droppings. Pour up to 0.5 l of solution under the bush.

You can feed strawberries with a specialized fertilizer, they are mineral and organo-mineral

Important! Do not increase the rate when watering strawberries with liquid nitrogen-containing fertilizer, so as not to stimulate excessive growth of leaf mass to the detriment of fruiting.

Top dressing with ash in combination with superphosphate will replace complex fertilizer... Two glasses of ash and a handful of superphosphate for 10 liters of water will saturate the plants with trace elements. Ash is good for strawberries and dry. Sifted, it can be scattered between the rows, as well as pollinated bushes, thereby protecting them from aphids and other uninvited guests.

Those who prefer ecological means should pay attention to yeast feeding (from bread soaked in water), a solution of 1 liter of milk whey in a bucket of water or infusion of nettle, weeds. These wild herbs are kept in water for 4–5 days, causing fermentation, and then watering the strawberries, spending up to a liter of infusion under the bush.

After all agrotechnical measures, the soil in the strawberry garden must be mulched with natural or artificial materials:

  • film;
  • non-woven fabric;
  • sawdust;
  • chopped straw;
  • dry grass;
  • compost;
  • leafy humus.

Mulch is poured in a layer of 4-7 cm, but no more, so as not to interfere with the heating of the soil by the sun

The further north the strawberry-growing area, the thinner the layer of mulch applied in spring should be.

We fight pests and ailments

Since garden strawberries are both tasty and useful, not only the owners of garden plots want to enjoy their fruits, but also numerous insects, as well as slugs. And fungal diseases are not uncommon for her. As you know, disease is easier to prevent than to cure, and strawberries are no exception. And the sooner prevention is carried out, the more successful it will be.

Table: pests of garden strawberries and means of combating them

The most common ailments that affect strawberries are:

  • gray and white rot;
  • verticilliasis;
  • fusarium;
  • powdery mildew.

These are diseases caused by fungi, and the methods of dealing with them are similar. Since we are talking about the earliest processing times, when there is a lot of time before flowering, and even more so before fruit setting, it is quite possible to use chemical remedies. But the importance of folk remedies cannot be underestimated, sometimes they literally save the harvest.

Preventive spraying against diseases is carried out by such means:

  • Fundazol,
  • Horus,
  • Topaz,
  • Fitosporin.

Many gardeners advise watering strawberry bushes with hot water with potassium permanganate - this destroys those wintering on the bush and a number of pests, cleans the plant of diseases. The water should not be steep boiling water, but about 70–80 ° C.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests of garden strawberries

Preventive measures

Do not forget about timely weeding, weed removal, watering. Mulching of plantings is very useful both with natural materials (straw, foliage, tops of peas, beans), and with a film, agrofibre. The latter is more preferable, since it has many small holes that provide heat exchange and air access to the roots. These measures will make the plant strong, sturdy, and pests will not be afraid of it.

Joint planting of strawberries and onions gives a positive effect in the fight against ailments and harmful insects. Phytoncides secreted by onions save from many diseases, and ticks and nematodes do not like its smell. Marigolds, lupines, peas also repel strawberry pests.

Joint planting of onions and strawberries is becoming more and more popular.

Video: processing strawberries after wintering

Spring preparation of the garden

For the spring planting of strawberries, we prepare a bed in this way:

  1. We process it with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).
  2. We dig up the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm.
  3. We fertilize with well-decomposed manure, mullein solution, droppings, ash.
  4. If the ground is dry, water it (up to a bucket of water per square meter).
  5. After watering, slightly loosen the ground with a pitchfork, a hoe, so that a crust does not form.

Video: proper care for strawberries

As they say, without labor ... there will be no sweet tasty berry. Work on the care of garden strawberry bushes begins in early spring, and this is justified. The sooner a complex of preventive measures is taken, the more likely the plants will be healthy, strong and give an excellent harvest.

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How to process strawberries in spring? Early spring strawberry care

With the onset of the first spring days, gardeners, rushing to their plots, begin to process the plantings. And if berries grow on the site, then there are always such troubles. And especially a lot of effort and attention requires processing strawberries in early spring. After all, a rich harvest depends, first of all, on the correctness of spring work in the beds.

Listen to the article

Homemade strawberry is a herbaceous perennial garden plant that is as popular in our gardens as raspberries, currants and gooseberries. A close relative of strawberries is strawberries. Strawberries, thanks to their unsurpassed taste, are cultivated in Europe, North and South America. The stem of the strawberry is erect, from 15 to 40 cm high, large tripartite basal leaves of strawberries, collected in a rosette, consist of ovate-rhombic leaves wide-toothed along the edge on short petioles. Both the stem and the leaves of the strawberry are covered with glandular hairs. Large strawberry flowers with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm in an amount of 5 to 12 pieces make up the corymbose inflorescence.

What is commonly called a strawberry berry - a juicy red conical fruit - is actually an overgrown receptacle on which there are real strawberries - small nuts. Garden strawberries have three times more chromosomes than wild or green strawberries, so they are not cross-pollinated with any other species. Strawberries are poorly transported and do not keep fresh for long.

Strawberries are more likely to be infected with fungal diseases and pests than berries introduced into the culture not so long ago, for example, blueberries and blackberries, but correct planting and care of strawberries ensures that these risks are minimized.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries

Correct transplantation of Victoria is the key to a future bountiful harvest. This procedure must be performed in late July – early August. Why is this period chosen? Because the seedlings transplanted in the summer will have time to take root well. And then successfully overwinter.

For transplanting, you only need to take outlets of the first order from the bush. Before the onset of cold weather, they will be able to build up green and root mass, even lay flower buds. The transplant must be completed before the second decade of September.

In the spring, seedlings of summer planting will immediately begin to develop, grow well, in contrast to the bushes of autumn planting.

It is believed that planting is best done on cloudy days. Watch the weather, it's good if the next couple of days are rainy, so the seedlings will experience less stress and take root perfectly.

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Choose a sunny area, the berries are better poured from the sun, it has an excellent taste. Before you start replanting seedlings, spill the garden bed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. This procedure will rid the soil of harmful microbes.

Strawberry planting work plan

  1. Dig up the site, loosen with a rake.
  2. Prepare the holes: depth - 30 cm, diameter - 25 cm.
  3. Fill half of the hole with humus mixed with superphosphate (30 g) and wood ash (0.5 cups).
  4. Cover the remaining half of the hole with earth.
  5. Water the hole to help the soil settle.
  6. Make a hole, plant a sprout, straightening the roots. Cover with a fertile layer.

Important! No need to bury the outlet, water it again. If in the first month after planting the roots are bare, then hilling must be carried out.

Before the onset of the autumn cold, the plants need to be fed with mullein or grass.

  • Usually the mullein is diluted with water at the rate of 1 liter of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Then the mixture is infused for 1-2 days, then 0.5 cups of ash is added to it.
  • Ordinary weeds will serve as an excellent green top dressing. To do this, chop the grass, spread it around the bushes, sprinkle with earth.

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Watch the video: Strawberry Winter Tips for Cold u0026 Warm Winter Climates to Jump Start Spring Berries